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Installation Instruction

Purpose of use.

 Siberian Bushing spare parts are designed to replace the worn out rubber parts of the car chassis.

Significant differences of Siberian Bushing spare parts.

  1. Design of some parts has been changed in comparison with the original ones. For example, original bushing has an outer metal shell, but that one of Siberian Bushing may be manufactured without it. For installation of some bushings the old metal shells are used. The old metal shells are carrying out the role of housing bores and are not removed from the arms. In cases of using the bushing without outer metal shell, the outer diameter of the bushing exceeds the inner diameter of housing bore in the arm. This allows filling the housing bore completely and fixing the bushing due to the elastic deformation of bushing’s body.
  2. One of distinctive features of Siberian Bushing spare parts is that inner metal sleeves or outer metal shells are not bonded to the polyurethane body. This principle is widely used in the world practice of designing the polyurethane bushings.
  3. Unlike the original sway bar bushings, our bushings do not have technological slit. Before the installation you should cut it the same way as original one. Or if shape and curves of the sway bar allow to drag the bushing along it, place uncut bushing in the housing area.

Remarks. These changes allow making full use of the properties of polyurethane. The features listed above are not applied to the entire range of Siberian Bushing spare parts.

Removal and Installation

Attention! Practical skills and professional tools may need for proper installation of the parts. All additional information you may get on siberianbushing.com.

  1. Before starting the works, note the placement of the part in a housing bore. The position of bushing, the depth of pressing in, the slit in the sway bar bushing are significant for the correct operation of the suspension. Mark the correct position of the part applying marks to both the arm and old bushing. Before the installation, mark a new bushing the same way as old one.
  2. Choose a hub driver and a hub base for the removing and installing of the part. Dimensions of the hub base must not interfere the removing of the bushing from the housing bore. Dimensions of the hub driver must not deform the outer metal shell of the bushing and the housing bore. For the bushings without outer metal shell, use the taper applying the pressure force to the inner metal sleeve. In case of П-shaped arm, choose a strut.
  3. Follow the direction of part’s removing and installing. For the bushings without outer metal shell, use a consistent grease applied to the part.
  4. After the part removing clean the housing bore. Evaluate its damage and wear. Change the parts of suspension that have abrasive or corrosive wear out.
  5. Compare the diameters of the housing bore and outer metal shell of new bushing. Diameter of the outer metal shell must exceed the diameter of the housing bore 0,2-0,5 mm. to provide necessary fixation of the bushing in the housing bore. If there’s no a difference in diameters, ensure the right choice of the bushing or change the arm.
  6. After installation, check the accuracy of part’s placement in the housing bore.

Attention! After the installation is completed, check the wheel alignment.

Hammer tools are forbidden for use while removing and installing.

 

 

Cut-off or grinding of the parts are forbidden. Tightening of the mounting bolts must be done only when suspension is loaded while the vehicle stands on the wheels on a smooth surface. Tightening force is according to the vehicle manufacturer’s instruction.

 

 

Possible

 

problems*

*Are not a result of the parts defects and can’t be considered as a warranty case

Sway bar bushing is squeaking Sway bar / sway bar link bushing is  squeezed out Inner metal sleeve / outer metal shell is torn off. Clunk after the installing of bushings with elastomer extending over the inner metal sleeve. Bushing without outer metal shell doesn`t slip into the housing bore because of bulging elastomer. Elastomer part of the bushing is rifted or damaged. Bushing is not holding in the housing bore. Bushing with outer metal shell is deformed while installing in the housing bore.
Wear out of the sway bar and / or arm’s housing bores. x           x  
Housing bore has not been cleaned from dirt and rust. x x           x
Other parts of suspension are worn out. As a result, the load on bushings is uneven.     x     x    
Vehicle was operated in excess of the maximum capacity.     x     x    
Grease has been washed out over time or the grease was not attached during the installation. x       x      
Inner sleeve of the bushing hasn’t meet the mating bracket.       x        
Outer shell or inner sleeve is not adhered to the elastomer by design specificity.     x          
Vehicle is raised on and suspension geometry is broken.     x     x    
Bushing was installed without taper that is necessary for the installation of the bushings without outer metal shell.         x      
Bushing has been trimmed or ground.             x  
Wrong choice of the bushing (incorrect OEM). x       x x x  
Sharpened edges of the housing bore were not filed. That caused the damage of the bushing during installation.           x x  
Inappropriate tightening of the parts.   x   x   x    
While the new bushing was pressing in, inappropriate hub driver cut the elastomer that has been torn later.           x    
Bushing was skewed while installing in the housing bore.               x
Inappropriate hub driver. Uneven distribution of the press force.               x
Housing bore was damaged while old bushing were removing               x
Improper placement of the bushing’s cutting under the clamp.   x